Puzzlewood

As seen in BBC’s Merlin

Fantasy Travel Made Real

Travel is often about fulfilling a lifelong dream, discovering breathtaking scenery, and experiencing amazing cultures and history. It sometimes starts with a book or a photograph, but nowadays it often starts with a movie (based on a book…) or a TV show that has captivated our heart and leads us to plan our own journey to fantastical places.

I have to start with my own experience that has stuck with me for many years and is a travel dream yet to be fulfilled. I was sitting in a movie theatre with my parents watching The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers. Aragorn is attacked by a Warg riding Orc and falls over the edge of a cliff. Somehow his horse saves him and carries him onward in his journey, about 30 minutes later in the film; a breathtaking, panoramic helicopter view of Aragorn and his horse on a rise overlooking a great brown valley with a huge range of snowcapped mountains and Helms Deep, miniscule in the distance. This was the scene that made me fall in love with New Zealand, particularly the South Island. Of course in Fellowship and later again in Return of the King, I wanted to be a hobbit and live on the North Island of New Zealand. Regardless, I will get there someday and plan to spend at least a month there when I do.

The Hobbit is currently filming in New Zealand and the national tourist board has a section on their website dedicated to directing visitors to ‘The Home of Middle Earth” http://www.newzealand.com/ca/ There are now a number of tour companies that run “Ring” tours so you get the full experience which include a visit to the Weta Workshop museum where all of the prosthetics, weapons, models, and artifacts were designed. With or without the Lord of the Rings hype, New Zealand is a breathtaking, nature lovers paradise that can be enjoyed by travellers of all ages, tastes, and budgets.  

Who can forget the iconic scenes of R2D2 and C3PO trudging through the sand to find Obi Wan Kenobi, or the site of the burned and destroyed moisture farm that was Luke’s boyhood home? After a bit of a politically tumultuous year, the real life site of Tatooine is once again stable and open for business. Tunisia is the gem of the north coast of Africa, with fascinating ancient history, colonial French architecture, a cosmopolitan capital city and Mediterranean seaside resorts. The food is an interesting mix of French, Arab, Mediterranean and Berber cuisine unlike anything else in the world.

You can fly into Tunis and take a regional tour (perhaps to ancient Carthage) or pick a cruise that has ports of call along the Tunisian coast. Stay at the Sidi Driss Hotel in Matmata, Tunisia where the hotel still has some of the original set decorations from 1977 movie. The inspiration for the Skywalker home was the local dugout homesteads of the people in the limestone around Matmata. Take a guided hike in the area to try and find Obi Wan’s cave for yourself. With the variety of influences that have crossed over this landscape for thousands of years, you are sure to have a life changing and unforgettable experience. http://www.cometotunisia.co.uk/

King Arthur and his knights currently rule prime time television with two different TV shows takes on the legend. “Camelot” focuses on a very beautiful and dramatic group of people, with a young Arthur under the guidance of an older Merlin. The BBC series “Merlin”, on the other hand, has the title character, Arthur and their friends in their early twenties (also very beautiful people, but somehow more relatable than Camelot) and mixes a fresh dose of buddy comedy into the drama and sorcery. The interior scenes of Merlin are filmed on a set near Cardiff in Wales, but the exteriors are filmed in such magical locations as Puzzlewood forest (http://www.puzzlewood.net/  ), part of the Forest of Dean in Gloucestershire, Brecon Beacons national park (http://www.breconbeacons.org/ ) in Wales and the stunning Pierrefonds Castle (http://pierrefonds.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/ ), which is open to the public even during filming.

The best way to visit Wales is to rent a car and drive the winding, narrow roads yourself. Make sure you have a good map, as many roads are unmarked and unpaved, but that is part of the adventure. Take some time to camp and hike in order to make the most of the remote scenery. In France, Pierrefonds Castle is also best reached by car. Give yourself a full day to explore the castle and the surrounding town. Make sure you check the Merlin filming schedule (available on various superfan websites) if you want a chance to see the actors and production for yourself.

Next stops on our Fantasy Adventure: Stormhold and Wall (Neil Gaimen’s Stardust), Hogwart’s and other magical places (J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter series), and Winterfell and the Seven Kingdoms and other Distant Lands (George R.R. Martin’s Song of Fire and Ice series a.k.a. Game of Thrones)

If you have a suggestion, please leave a comment!

A Little Piece of Las Vegas for Everyone – Part 2

Time for Part 2 of the Las Vegas hotel review! There is so much diversity in the size, style and décor of hotels in Las Vegas that there really is something for everyone. Although the last post was geared towards the traditional “What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas” type trip, there are many other reasons to visit the city. Despite the adults playground reputation, there is plenty for families, friends, and even the business traveller to take in .

 

The Family Friendly Adventure

• Excalibur: Arcade
  • http://www.excalibur.com/hotel/
  • Fun Dungeon is the place to be for families of all ages! It is a basement filled with arcade games, carnival games, penny arcade, and Laser Tag! If you get hungry, you don’t have to leave because right in the middle is a DQ/Orange Julius! Open Monday – Wednesday till 9pm and Thursday  – Sunday till 11pm.
  • Tournament of Kings is the family friendly Medieval/King Arthur themed dinner theatre, complete with jousting, sword fighting, pyrotechnics and dancing girls! No cutlery allowed at this dinner table. Area style seating means that you get to know your table mates and everyone gets their hands dirty. The food is really good – a full, small roast chicken, a baked potato and a broccoli tree per person is the main course. The first course was ‘dragon’s blood soup’ which tasted suspiciously like tomato…
  • Also at this hotel the G rated Polar Bear Express 4D Experience and SpongeBob Squarepants 4D special effects ride! (they also have Dino 3D and Journey to the Center of the Earth)
  • Other than all of the fun stuff to do, the hotel is amazingly well themed with turrets, crenulations, draw bridges, flags and knights everywhere you look. The theme has been pulled from much of English legend, not exclusive to the Excalibur story as there are references in the hotel to Sherwood Forest as well. 

The Couples Retreat

• Paris: Romantic Atmosphere/Fine Dining
  • http://www.parislasvegas.com/casinos/paris-las-vegas/hotel-casino/property-home.shtml
  • The style of Paris Las Vegas, like the city itself is opulent, luxurious, and just a bit over the top in that Louis XIV style of the 17^th century that France is known for. It is classic, romantic, and beautiful.  The architecture itself is stunning and the Paris theme of the casino is tastefully done.
  • The Eifel Tower: Tres romantique! Who can go to Paris without going up the Eifel Tower (other than me, of course!)? So I had to go up the one in Las Vegas instead. The view of the Vegas Strip and the surrounding mountains is truly stunning. Another bonus – a different and awesome view of the Bellagio water fountain show!
  • The Pool: Las Vegas hotels are known for their pools, but this one is an understated gem. It is a large square pool in the middle of a plaza, very quiet, with lots of loungers and umbrellas. It is set in a traditional French manicured garden, complete with topiary trees in white urns, and a sidewalk café for refreshments. The pool seems to be floating halfway up the legs of the Eifel Tower, as it is located on the 3^rd floor of the hotel.
  • Nightlife: Chateau Nightclub is popular with A-list celebrities for it’s unique and luxurious atmosphere that includes a French garden, chandeliers, gold, crystal, and opulent fire places. Spread over two floors and three different experience areas, this is not to be missed for a complete Las Vegas experience.

The Business Trip

• The Cosmopolitan
  • http://www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/
  • Free WiFi – even if you are not staying at this hotel. There are two sides to this coin of course. The hotel is fabulous and guests pay a resort fee – which is a contentious issue in Las Vegas. The bonus? For conference attendees who are not staying here, those resort fees everyone else is paying, covers your use of the wireless internet
  • Gorgeous Bars. The Cosmopolitan’s bars literally sparkle, especially The Chandelier bar with a million strings of crystal beads cascading from the ceiling make you feel like you are literally sitting in the middle of a giant Swarovski chandelier. It is as breathtaking the 10^th time you see it as it is on your very first glimpse.   And really, you may need a stiff drink after a day of meetings
  • Great Selection of Food Options – This is really key for business travellers. They need to be connected, have a comfortable bed, and decent food to keep them going. The Cosmopolitan excels at all three but when it comes to food, they have gone the extra mile. Their choices are unique and interesting, but still comfortable, and reasonably priced. Check out their website for all of your dining possibilities.
  • Balconies – What? Balconies in Las Vegas? Yes indeed. And while this may not seem that exciting, hear me out… This hotel is located next door to The Bellagio, so depending on your room, you can have an amazing view of the fountain show. Another bonus? Their fourth floor pool area is also used as a music venue, so you can have a bird’s eye view of some of today’s hottest and up-and-coming artists such as Foster the People, who played there in October.

The Group of Friends

• Treasure Island: Themed Fun
  • Pirates!! Though this hotel can be seen as kid friendly, some of the pirate jokes on the merchandise, and the Sirens Show in front of the hotel are pretty adult oriented… not an R rating but definitely PG 13. This is a resort that can be appropriate for anyone but would be best enjoyed by fun loving couples and groups of friends who are looking for a great casual atmosphere and some potential serious silliness.   
  • Nice rooms – This may surprise people but the rooms at Treasure Island are just as nice (some say nicer) than the rooms at Caesars Palace. They are decorated in soothing tropical island tones of browns (like the sand), blues and greens (like the water and foliage)
  • The Party Tub – what pirate atmosphere would be complete without a serious dash of debauchery – this fantastic pool area includes a 25 seat Hot Tub. It is truly a tropical island like resort pool, complete with an interactive DJ on the weekends from noon to 4pm.
  • Location: Treasure Island is located across from the Venetian and next to the Fashion Show Mall. If you love Cirque du Soleil this is a great spot for you – Mystere is at TI and Love is next door at Mirage.

Well I hope this little taste of Las Vegas has whetted your appetite for all that this oasis has to offer. There is truly something for everyone here, even the non-gamblers and non-party people. And of course, the sky is the limit – if you can dream it, you can probably find it in Las Vegas.

A Little Like Gambling: How to Pick the Right Las Vegas Hotel

Las Vegas is a real anomaly of a place: An oasis in the middle of the desert, frivolous spending and entertainment in the middle of a recession, drag queens and preachers, exclusive clubs with homeless people sleeping in front of them, washed up celebrities playing nightly with Hollywood’s A-list partying next door. It is kitsch, it is class, it is white-trash, and for better or for worse, it’s not going anywhere.

It truly is one of those places that you just have to experience before you can really even begin to comprehend it. I had heard and studied so much about the place that I figured I knew what I was talking about, but there really is this buzz and this atmosphere that is so intangible, it can’t be explained.

So after a few days in Las Vegas (and two very sore feet) I have boiled down, not the best of the best, but the “best fit for why you are going to Las Vegas” list of hotels.

(Note: I differentiate between the Bachelor/Bachelorette party and Girlfriends/Guys Getaway because there is an intrinsic difference in what happens and the atmosphere of these two types of trips…trust me…)

The Girlfriends Getaway

• Caesar’s Palace: Shopping
  • www.caesarspalace.com
  • The Forum Shops are the place to be for all of your shopping on the strip. There are outlets around of course, but if like me you are in Vegas for a conference with Zero free time to get to the outlets, then the Forum Shops are a must. I was looking for the Abercrombie & Fitch store for my jeans and had to ask for directions. This was the answer: “Just go around The Forum to the left and turn right at The Fountain of the Gods.” No Joke. And my jeans were 50% off (thank the Roman Gods!)
  • Over 160 stores and 13 restaurants.  
  • Bonus – they have the most comfortable, cushion covered wrought iron benches I have ever sat on. Great for all the guys waiting around while the wives go crazy for all of the shoes (and everything else under the fake Italian sky!)
  • Did I mention that the mall itself is gorgeous – like wandering through the Uffizi Gallery or looking up at the Sistine Chapel ceiling – yeah, this is Vegas!

The Bachelorette Party

• Bellagio: Splurge/Amazing Location
  • www.bellagio.com  
  • This is for the Bachelorette (and her friends) who are not on a budget. The Bellagio is for that certain type of girl (read: Princess) who enjoys the finer things in life and loves to be surrounded by a gorgeous setting and furnishings. The Bellagio is decadent, rich, and refined – and totally worth it – just like a Bachelorette
  •  Front row view of the magnificent fountain show – and really, once you see it, you know what I mean. It really is quite magical.
  • The fountains may be obvious but there are two hidden gems at the Bellagio: The Botanical Gardens (free!) and the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art with rotating exhibitions from some of the world’s greatest artists ($15.00)
  • There are nightclubs galore in Las Vegas but one of the most exclusive is The Bank located at the Bellagio and is noted for its ultra-lux, impeccable service and discerning/elite clientele  

The Guy’s Getaway

• Mandalay Bay: Shark Tank
• www.mandalaybay.com
  • North Americas only predator based aquarium. Dude, seriously – sharks, sawfish, giant rays, endangered green sea turtles, piranha, jellies and the rare golden crocodile. There is a touch pool where you can lay your hands on some of the sharks, rays and other ocean predators.
  • The Gym – not something most people think about on their vacation, but for those who like to keep their routine, or maybe get inspired to start one, the gym at Mandalay Bay is state of the art and revolutionary in atmosphere. Combine this with the Bathhouse (not the spa – that’s more for the ladies) and you can come away from your guys getaway feeling and looking your best.
  • Located right behind Mandalay Bay on the strip is the Bali Hai Golf Club covering 7 acres of lush landscaping and challenging water features. This is one of the top rated golf courses in the United States, so bring your clubs!
  • Did we mention that there is also a burger bar and an Irish Pub on site, as well as a total of 7 clubs and lounges…Gentlemen, Suit Up!

The Bachelor Party

• MGM Grand: Lions/UFC
  • www.mgmgrand.com
  • You’ve seen The Hangover… enough said? Maybe not….
  • The MGM Grand is located at the very beginning of The Strip right by the airport, so staying here means you can get to the action right away and stay right up until that final boarding call (ok, not really but you get the idea!)
  • This hotel is all about the crazy nightlife (and daylife) and events such as UFC matches and boxing title bouts. Check out Wet Republic ultra pool, and if you still have energy, head to Studio 54 at night and try out your best Zoolander impression (on second thought, please don’t…)
  • Looking for some eye candy on Bachelor getaway? Head to Rouge, a sleek Ferrari red bar where all of the servers are models. Try your best pick up line, I dare you.
  • What Hangover remake would be complete without a big cat? Head over to the Lion Habitat (free) to check out the grand residents themselves and find out about protection efforts for the species.

Next time: The Family Adventure, The Couples Retreat, The Business Trip, and The Group of Friends

Just another winter getaway? How about a Cruise instead?

The leaves are starting to change again here in Ottawa which means that before you know it the snow will be on the ground before you know it and you will be aching to get away from the mittens and windshield scraping. So of course your thoughts return to the sunshine and beach of summertime and you pull out the old atlas (or more likely the internet) to figure out where you want to go.

Instead of trying to pick one fabulous beach over another, why not get a taste of multiple destinations? Sit back and relax or join in the activities on a cruise.

Anyone reading this who has cruised will understand the value and quality of cruising today. With so many choices in cruise lines, and choices on each ship, there is a cruise to suit every person. Even those who are prone to sea sickness should take a few minutes to consider the medical and technological advances that have helped thousands of cruise passengers and reduced the side to side motion of the ships.

Here in the travel industry, agents are supported by a network of associations providing information, technical support, and training. CLIA the Cruise Lines International Association does just that for travel agents and the cruise industry.

They also provide support and information for the public who, really, are the most important part of the cruise industry: the cruisers!

For those of you who have never cruised, the following information from CLIA provides an overview of why cruise vacations are great value for everyone.

“For value, variety and satisfaction…you haven’t lived until you’ve cruised!

Every day, more and more people are discovering the all-inclusive pleasures of a cruise vacation. More singles, families, couples, honeymooners, second honeymooners and groups of friends are sailing away on the vacation of their lives. Last year alone approximately seven million people enjoyed a cruise vacation. When you add it all up, it’s easy to see why.

The price of your ticket includes all of your meals and in-between snacks on-board; your stateroom, activities, parties and entertainment; plus, an exciting voyage to some of the most enchanting and culturally-enriching places in the world.

You’ll find that a cruise ship is a floating resort, with all the things a fine resort has to offer and more! You’ll meet new friends who share the same tastes and interests as you.

The hassles of an ordinary vacation are completely eliminated. A cruise is one convenient package. You don’t have to worry about making dinner or nightclub reservations, running to make flight connections as you travel from one destination to another, or packing and unpacking.

You can lie back and be completely pampered. Or, go non-stop. Dine like never before. Enjoy one great show after another. Let your cares float away!

It’s no wonder that more people are taking cruise vacations than ever before. And once they get a taste of cruising, they come back for more, again and again.”

For a taste of what each cruise line has to offer check out their websites and YouTube pages to see some great information, pictures and videos. Not everyone will suit the same cruise, but there is a cruise line for everyone. If you still have reservations about cruising, contact our office and we will be happy to discuss the benefits and options that are available to you on a cruise vacation.

The undeserved plight of the Escorted Motorcoach Tour

Image via Wikipedia

For a few years now escorted motorcoach tours have somehow gained a bad reputation that they just can’t seem to shake. There is this public image of hours on a bus with people you don’t know or like, and a tour director cracking the whip to keep the schedule. There also seems to be the notion that escorted tours are for the blue haired lady set which is a huge misconception.

I am here to add my voice to the small but loud group of travel professionals that are desperately and passionately trying to erase this reputation and give motorcoach travel the respect it deserves.

One of my favourite travel memories involve sitting in a comfortable motorcoach, sharing ‘diskman’ headphones with my friend while watching the scenery of the Apennines  pass us by on our way to Pompeii. It was March 2003 (before any of us had an ipod) and I was on the ‘Rome to Athens’ educational trip by EF Tours along with 30 of my classmates and 4 chaperones.

We were listening to 3 x 5, a song by John Mayer about travel (full lyrics below). My friend Jenn was pointing out some interesting clouds when I looked at her curiously and said, “Um Jenn? That’s not a cloud, it’s a mountain.” And indeed it was Mt Vesuvius. Seconds later we heard Mayer’s soothing lyrics: “and it’s strange how clouds that look like mountains in the sky, are next to mountains anyway”.  We had a good laugh at that moment and for the rest of the trip, when any of us saw a big cloud, we poked Jenn and said “Hey look! It’s a mountain!” There were other inside jokes a plenty – one of the inevitable things that happens when travelling with a lively and diverse group of people.

Our tour director on that particular trip was one of the most unforgettable aspects of the whole experience. His name was Paolo “Paolo, not polo. Polo is chicken” – and that is how he introduced himself. Tour Directors are not pushy, broken records of endless and useless knowledge. Quite the opposite; these are well educated, experienced travellers and professionals who are passionate about sharing their favourite places with you. They have inside tips on the best local restaurants (away from the rest of the tourists), interesting handicrafts and souvenirs, and hidden gems that you would not necessarily find if you were there on your own. A tour director opens the door of possibilities for you to choose from in your free time.

Free time? Yes. Escorted tours offer plenty of free time each day. Perhaps the morning will consist of an overview tour of the city by coach or on foot, and then you are on your own to explore for the rest of the day, or join an optional tour.

Escorted tours offer excellent value and security. The options vary by company but generally most escorted tours include: many meals (including daily breakfast), quality accommodation with private bath facilities, transportation on a comfortable state of the art motorcoach (often with flat screen T.V.’s for videos, large picture windows, high back reclining seats, and a washroom), an expert tour director that speaks the local language, and an experienced motorcoach driver who will get you safely there and back again for the whole tour. Also included are tours, sightseeing and local attractions as per your chosen itinerary.

Bonus: the driver and guide often double as a photographer so everyone in your group is in that classic picture.

There are so many tour itineraries and styles of travel: from a leisurely pace in a couple of cities to a fast pace grand tour. You can see many countries in a number of days, or just explore a tiny corner of one country in a whole week. The choice is yours, and the choices are endless and updated from year to year.

This just scratches the surface of possibilities – I haven’t even gone into niche trips such as cycling, photography, hiking, dance, cultural immersion, religious, winery and culinary tours, family and multigenerational trips… If you can dream it, an Escorted Motorcoach trip can do it, with zero stress and 110% value.

An Escorted Motorcoach trip is a great way to meet new people, see new places, and experience new things, with the leadership of a guide and the freedom to do what you like. The only way to truly experience this incredibly enjoyable and satisfying form of travel is to do it yourself.  

Our favourite Escorted Motorcoach Companies include:

EF Tours, The Globus Family of Brands, Trafalgar Tours, and Insight Vacations.

Locally: Ottawa Valley Tours and Travac Tours

3 x 5 John Mayer

I’m writing you to
catch you up on places I’ve been
And you have this letter
You probably got excited, but there’s nothing else inside it.

Didn’t have a camera by my side this time
hoping I would see the world through both my eyes
maybe I will tell you all about it when I’m
in the mood to lose my way with words

Today skies are painted colors of a cowboy cliché
and its strange how clouds that look like mountains in the sky
are next to mountains anyway

but let me say
You should have seen that sunrise with your own eyes
it brought me back to life
You’ll be with me next time I go outside
No more 3×5′s
I guess you had to be there
I guess you had to be with me

Today I finally overcame
trying to fit the world inside a picture frame
Maybe I will tell you all about it when I’m in the mood to
lose my way but let me say
You should have seen that sunrise with your own eyes
it brought me back to life
You’ll be with me next time I go outside
no more 3×5′s
just no more 3×5′s

Why Travel and Food go together like Peanut Butter and Jelly

It must be close to lunchtime if I’m writing about food. Or perhaps I skipped breakfast? Food is an essential part of our lives, and not just for surviving. Food has been given an intense meaning and social significance beyond any other aspect of human culture. We celebrate with food at birthdays and holidays; we give up food for religious, health or moral reasons; we wallow in a tub of ice cream as easily as we toast with a glass of champagne (sometimes on the same day…) So if this is a travel blog, why am I writing about the significance of food (other than the fact that I am hungry…)?

Food is such a part of our everyday life, that when you are somewhere different, and far away from home, it is food that can have the greatest impact on your mood, your memories, and even tug at your heartstrings.

A meal can be just something that you have to have to keep going for the day, but most often when we travel, there is a meal or a type of food that you will never forget. It is usually something as simple as eating a crepe while walking down the sidewalk in Paris, or having fresh fish n chips from a tiny corner shop on the coast of Northern Scotland. There are food associations everywhere you go that make for unforgettable memories. A few of our favourites include:

• Pizza at the little restaurant just outside the entrance to Pompeii Archeological site in Italy
• Gyros from a traditional Greek takeaway in the Plaka district Athens
• Shepherd’s Pie at a convent and private girls school in rural Ireland
• BBQ Red Snapper at a fish fry on the beach in St Lucia
• Coconut Cream Pie on the verandah watching the sunset over the Caribbean Sea in Aluthra, Bahamas.
• Gruyere Cheese on fresh bread while hiking in Switzerland
• Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream after the factory tour in Waterbury, Vermont
• A huge Cubano Sandwich at a little restaurant just off the beach in Luquillo, Puerto Rico
• Pad Thai from a street vendor in Bangkok
• Kangaroo Burgers on Bondi Beach in Australia (with a Fosters of course)

These are some of our favourites that we have experienced while far away from home. The flip side of this coin is all of the foods that we miss the most. Sometimes we do not even realize that it is typically Canadian (or North American) until we can’t find it on the store shelves of another country. These have included

• Tim Horton’s anything (of course this is first on the list)
• Cheese curds
• Dad’s Oatmeal Cookies
• Golden Oreos (the original Christie Vanilla Girl Guide Cookie recipe)
• Girl Guide Cookies
• Chapman’s Ice Cream
• Lipton’s Chicken Noodle Soup
• Root Beer

So next time you are far away from home and hungry, find something local, unique, and memorable. A simple meal can turn an ordinary day on the road into an amazing travel memory. Bon Appetite!

Top 5 Reasons to Visit Europe in the Winter

When most people think of getting away from Ottawa in the winter it is usually to somewhere warm and tropical, where the drinks are flowing and the palm trees are swaying. And while I don’t disagree that it is a worthy and worthwhile vacation dream, sometimes sun and sand do not beckon everyone, and rightly so. Some people really do prefer to wander around a city, all bundled up, coco in hand, than to find that perfect beach chair and curl up under the sun with a book and a rum punch. I happen to be one of those people and will share my best (formerly) kept secrets on why I love Europe in the winter.

Better Prices – winter is low season in the major cities and tourist spots in Europe with the exception of the ski resort regions around the Alps and the Pyrenees Mountains. January through March can be exceptionally reasonable, being the slowest time of year for the tourism industry in most western, central, and northern European countries.

Festivals and the Arts Season – The Europeans know how to make the most out of their winter. They display their passion for culture and the arts in a great variety of traditions. Join in one of the many local or internationally renown festivals to bust those winter blues. Winter is also the main season for theatre, opera and ballet throughout the world. Get your tickets and semi-formal wear ready for a sophisticated night out. Check out these annual winter events: Kiruna Snow Festival – Kiruna, Sweden (northern lights); Prague Winter Festival (ballet and opera); Carnival in Venice (February 11-21, 2012)

Winter Sports – Head to the Alps for some of the best skiing and snowboarding in the world. Check out a world cup race event or a big air snowboarding competition. If you are up for something more unique, sip your aperitif while watching the St Moritz Polo Club – Polo on Snow Championship. Try your hand at the ancient sport of curling in Scotland, or wax your cross country skis and try to keep up with the locals in Norway – a cross country powerhouse.

Christmas Markets – Annual Christmas markets have become a huge draw for international tourists in certain cities, particularly Munich and Prague. They are two of the best in the world and can be worth the crowds for the incredible atmosphere and unique gifts. Most European cities have some sort of market, or many small markets (like London and Paris), so you can get your pre-Christmas fix almost anywhere.

Covent Garden decorated for Christmas

No Crowds (except at the Christmas Markets) – The most amazing thing about travelling in Europe in the winter – especially January and February – is the lack of other tourists. The lines for museums and attractions are virtually nonexistent, there are open seats on public transportation, and there is room to maneuver (and breath!) on the sidewalks. You can have a room at a famous art gallery nearly all to yourself, and wander down tree lined boulevards with a café mocha warming your hands.

So next time you are itching to get to Europe, consider going in the off season. Keep an open mind and a flexible itinerary when it comes to coping with the weather and take advantage of this truly magical time of year.

(Erin lived in London, England from November 2005 to May 2006 and traveled all over southern England, as well as to Paris and north eastern Scotland in the winter)

 

Switzerland Report Part VI – Lucerne and Mt Pilatus

After a quick breakfast at our hostel and a quick walk around the property for some last minute pictures of the Matterhorn, we met our taxi driver at the front door and he took us down the hill, through quiet and beautiful Zermatt to the train station. He bid us well and to come back again before we boarded our train to Lucerne.

We settled in for our longest train rid of the whole trip, a blissfully painless 3 hours. We had lovely seats on each train, and on the last stretch, between Visp and Lucerne, we were on the second floor of the train car, sitting on an L shaped couch with beautiful views of the lakes and foothills of central Switzerland.

We arrived into very hot and muggy Lucerne just after lunchtime and found our hotel. For our last couple of nights in Switzerland I wanted a bit of comfort in a really good location, so I chose a hotel near the train station and main thoroughfare. As it happens, I had sort of booked a mini suite, so we even had a little sitting/T.V. room with a fridge.

Lucerne is an interesting and very old city in a beautiful lakeside location. The most famous parts of Lucerne are the Chapel Bridge, the Lion Monument and the proximity to Mt Pilatus. Of course we visited these (more on Mt Pilatus later), but the most memorable part of the city for me was the medieval walls finished in 1386 and still almost completely intact!

It is truly an amazing experience for anyone who loves castles, fortresses, fairytales, and anything medieval. The guard towers are open to the public so you can walk up inside one, across the top of the wall behind the crenellations and then down another, coming out onto a path behind (outside) the city walls and into an apple orchard. It really was a hot day, so walking along the shady path between the wall and the orchard was a cool break from the heat on top of the wall. It was so easy to imagine what it would have been like when the city was smaller and the wall was the main defensive structure protecting the city. The wall ends at the Reuss River that runs through Lucerne and into Lake Lucerne. Just before the river there is a main road that runs through arches in the wall, where you can turn back into town, and find yourself standing among buildings that were built in the shadow of this great defensive wall.

The Chapel Bridge crosses the Reuss River in the heart of Lucerne. It is a truly picturesque and idyllic setting for an evening stroll. Part of the bridge had burned and has been restored. The part that did not burn still has its original murals painted on the beams. In the summertime the flower baskets along the bridge are filled with begonias or impatiens, creating a postcard perfect scene. The bridge is busy during the day with tour groups who are just in the city for a few hours. When you stay in the city like we did, you have the bridge to yourself (and a few locals) in the early morning, and all evening. This is the best time to take advantage of the sights and enjoy some gelato at one of the many cafes or parlors along the river.

The Lion Monument is on every bus tour stop, and for good reason; it is a monument to the Swiss Guards who were mercenaries during the French Revolution and were massacred by revolutionaries in 1792 at the Tuileries Palace in Paris. The monument is much larger in person than any picture suggests that it could be and it is set in a tranquil but very small park. This is another area that is on the tourist trail in Lucerne, but it is really in impressive piece of stonework, and worth a quick visit to help understand the unique nature of the Swiss position on neutrality and mercenaries.

The other highlight of our time in Lucerne was our trip to Mount Pilatus which is the peak of one of the first foothill mountains of the Swiss Alps. Most bus tours drive their passengers to the cog railway at the base of the mountain and ride it up and back down the mountain. For those not constrained by a tour there is a far more interesting and relaxing way to complete the journey: The Golden Round Trip.

The Golden Round Trip begins with a leisurely boat cruise from central Lucerne (just outside the modern art gallery) to the town of Alpnachstad, about an hour away on the shores of Lake Lucerne. (bus tours drive from Lucerne to the town) At Alpnachstad we disembarked and took a short walk across the road through the pedestrian tunnel, to the Pilatus cog railway station.

The Pilatus Cog railway is the steepest cogwheel railway system in the world and the trains themselves are built at a 45 degree angle. The trip to the top takes just over half an hour and each car has large picture windows. There are great views of the nearby lakes and pastureland as well as the distant Alps. The more active and adventurous type can hike from Alpnachstad to the top of Mt Pilatus via a well-marked switchback hiking trail, which takes a number of hours. Fortunately there is a small hotel as well as shops and a couple of restaurants when you reach the top.

Mt Pilatus is unique in some ways, but very much like the Gornergrat in Zermatt (and likely also the Jungfraujock in Interlaken, but I can’t say from personal experience on that one.

There is a beautiful sundeck with free chairs and hiking trails through the tunnels at the top of the mountain and all around the area of the peak. We decided to eat at the outdoor restaurant, complete with yellow umbrellas and a breathtaking view of the Alps in the distance. It is truly a spectacular spot. The service was slow, but the food and the view were incredible.

There is some very interesting mythology about Mt Pilatus involving a dragon and a monk that banished it – but I insist that you go there yourself to learn more.

To complete our round trip, we first took a large cable car with about 30 other people down from the peak to the adventure sports area of Frakmuntegg. We could have stopped there and done a high ropes course, had we known it existed in advance… next time for sure. From there the two of us took a 4 seat cable car to the town of Kreins which is a large suburb south west of Lucerne. From the cable car station we took a 15 minute walk to the bus station where we pulled out our trusty Swiss Rail Pass and took the local bus back into Lucerne, thus completing the Golden Round Trip: Boat, Cog Rail, Large Cable Car, Small Cable Car, Walk, and Public Bus.

We spent our last day in Lucerne wandering around, especially looking for murals on buildings and going into churches – as these are generally the coolest place to escape and sit down after wandering around outside. We also found some last few souvenir shops and picked up some Christmas decorations which are a very popular Swiss souvenir.

The next morning we used our faithful Swiss Rail Pass for the last time and boarded a train from Lucerne to Zurich Flughafen (the airport). Again, one of the great things about travelling in Switzerland, and most of Europe for that matter, is the major airports are very well connected to multiple cities. Lucerne is only 45 minutes from the Airport in Zurich so there is really no need to go back into Zurich the night before a flight and stay near the airport.

We certainly loaded up on more chocolate before leaving Switzerland, especially the brands that are not readily available here in Canada (so not Toblerone – sorry).

I don’t really remember much of the flight home other than our stopover at terminal 5 of Heathrow Airport – where the shopping is not nearly as good as terminal 3.

Despite the last leg of the trip being a bit of a blur, it was a truly memorable experience to travel through a country that I love and be able to share it with my mum. Switzerland remains one of my favourite countries in the world to visit (so far) because it is breathtakingly beautiful, clean, friendly, efficient, historically interesting, fun, and easy to get around. Really, what more could you ask for in any destination?

For more information about travelling to Switzerland and Liechtenstein please contact Transcon Travel and ask for Erin.

Switzerland Report Part V – Zermatt

After a lovely and very “Girl Guide-ish” stay at Our Chalet in Adelboden, we got on the bus back to Frutigen and took the train (again using our Swiss Rail Pass) from there to Zermatt.

Zermatt is an amazing, interesting, and beautiful place that is just one of those spots where all the words in the world cannot do it justice, but I will try.

The first thing to understand is that there are no private cars in Zermatt – no cars at all actually. You must arrive by train and then walk, or take a little mini bus – and I mean mini – to your hotel, chalet, resort, hostel, spa, etc. The – lets call them transfers – are little 6 seat mini vehicles that look to have been built on the frame of a bob cat (construction vehicle). The gentlemen who drive them around for all of the tourists (and maybe some locals) seem to know that they have one of the best driving jobs in the world. There is no other vehicle traffic to contend with, the streets are impeccably clean, the vehicles are small enough to drive around the pedestrians, and there are incredible views at every turn.

Our lovely driver took us right to the door of the Youth Hostelling International hostel where we were staying and even brought our bags right to the door for us. He was then kind enough to ask if we would like to be picked up at the end of our stay and brought back to the train station. We of course agreed. The hostel is approximately 25-30 minutes on foot from the train station, and uphill almost the whole way. It can be difficult to find if you are not sure of the way, but once you are there, it is an easy 15 minutes downhill back to the main part of town and the station.

The Zermatt Hostel advertises rooms with a view of the Matterhorn – the real reason for our visit – and we were not disappointed. We dropped our bags into the room, pulled back the curtains, and there she was right in front of us. This majestic, famous, picturesque, imposing, beautiful and unforgettable mountain was right there, framed in our hostel window. The 5 star historical grand hotel in town – they got nothing on this view.

View from our hostel window. I'm serious

The hostel was lively, even between major seasons in Zermatt. There were many family groups, a few ‘post high school/college’ travellers, groups of adults on a hiking trip, and a school band. This particular hostel does not have a self catering kitchen and therefore they provide – included in the cost of your stay – breakfast and dinner every day (alcohol extra). On our first night there, mum and I had a delicious pasta dinner and split a local beer for an extra 3.5 CHF.

In order to get the most out of Zermatt you have to 1) be in good physical condition 2) be prepared to walk and 3) get up early.

Zermatt is at a high altitude of 1620 m which means that altitude sickness can affect some travellers. People in good physical conditions may fare a bit better than those who are out of shape, especially with breathing thinner air. Drink lots of water and wear sunscreen no matter what time of year you visit.

There is a lot to see in this little town so we did a lot of walking in order to see it all. There is a beautiful square in the middle of town where there is a church, some shops, and the tourist centre/museum. It is a great place to start looking around. The school band that was staying at the hostel performed on the steps of the church one night when we were there. Up the street from the church, towards the Matterhorn, are the oldest buildings in Zermatt. They are of a traditional construction up on pilings (so the rats couldn’t get in – an old problem as we never saw any rats) with very dark stained wood and peaked roofs. Each chalet is very tiny, only about 4-6 m sq. There is also a graveyard nearby with an example of the old chalet there. This graveyard is very important to the valley as it is the hikers and mountaineers graveyard. Each gravestone is different, with the inscription of the name, age, and nationality of the hiker. Each stone also had information of which mountain, and face of the mountain the hiker died on. There were some very old stones, back to the mid 1800′s but also some very, very new stones of recent mountaineering deaths, many of which occurred on the north face of the Matterhorn. It was a very sombre and sobering reminder of the dangerousness of the hobby.

Mum and I had already decided to take a safer route up to the mountaintops by taking a ride on the Gornergrat. This is where number three comes in. Many of the bus tours stay in Tasch and take the train into Zermatt for the day. This means that they arrive around 9:00 am and leave around 5:30 pm. The Gornergrat is a special cog railway that takes you up to 3100 m where there is a hotel and observatory overlooking the Gorner Glacier and directly across the valley from the Matterhorn. We took the second train up in the morning at 8:20 am and were on the train with the photographer and Berenese Mountain Dogs. There were maybe 40 people up at the top of the Gornergrat when we arrived. It was quiet, and peaceful, and we had plenty of space to take all the pictures we wanted without anyone in the way. Plus, no lineup for our turn with the dogs.

By 9:30 am the third train of the day had arrive full of the bus tour groups. The terrace of the restaurant became a very busy place, but in just over an hour, everyone was gone again. We had a lovely time chatting with a family from Japan who were also there on their own and happy taking pictures of the wide open space on top of the mountains. There is also a set of lovely stores inside the hotel/observatory where we bought souvenirs. We also peeked inside the chapel and looked around the station area (finished in 1898) before heading back down to Zermatt.

My only disappointment (self inflicted because I didn’t do my research) was that we could not hike to Rifflesee – the lake in which the Matterhorn is reflected in so many pictures, because there was still 8 feet of snow at that altitude. The hiking trail does not open until July – and we were there in May.

We met some very lovely people from a number of countries including the United States and Germany, who made our stay that much more enjoyable. After two nights in Zermatt, lots of walking, photo taking, Toblerone bar eating, and Swiss Army Knife shopping, we got back on the train and continued our journey to Lucerne.

The conclusion of the Switzerland Report still to come with Lucerne and Mt Pilatus.